Oman, a land of breathtaking landscapes and ancient history, never ceases to amaze travelers. One of its most intriguing attractions is a site shrouded in mystery and wonder, the Beehive Tombs of Jaylah. Nestled in the remote Selma Plateau, these ancient tombs beckon adventurers and history enthusiasts alike. Join me as I unravel the secrets of these enigmatic structures and guide you through an unforgettable journey to discover them.
THE ANCIENT HISTORY OF BEEHIVE TOMBS OF JAYLAH
The Beehive Tombs of Jaylah, dating back to the Umm An Nar culture of 2000 to 2700 BC, are a testament to the architectural ingenuity of ancient civilizations. Discovered relatively recently, these tombs have sparked curiosity and fascination among archaeologists and travelers.
Standing approximately 3 meters tall and conical in shape, these 90 or so stone towers command a dramatic position on the edge of the plateau. The precise purpose and construction methods of the Beehive Tombs of Jaylah remain a mystery, adding to their allure.
HOW TO GET TO BEEHIVE TOMBS OF JAYLAH?
Getting to the Beehive Tombs of Jaylah is an adventure in itself. There are four primary routes, each offering unique experiences and challenges:
Route 1: Majlis Al Jin and Cave Exploration
The first route from Fins coast includes a detour to Majlis Al Jin (22.881659, 59.105733) and other fascinating caves (Arch Cave: 22.867832, 59.104804, Three Windows Cave: 22.860432, 59.101712 or Seven Holes Cave: 22.859182, 59.116280). To navigate this route, you will need 4×4 vehicle.
Majlis Al Jin is one of the largest underground chambers in the world. This magnificent cave, hidden beneath the mountains, offers a spectacular experience for adventurers. Remember that access to the cave requires proper gear and expertise, so plan accordingly.
Route 2: Coastal Adventure with a View
Starting from the coast of Fins and the small settlement of Gharuba (entry point: 22.869909, 59.222483), this route offers a scenic drive with the opportunity to camp and enjoy incredible coastal views. Concrete pavement in steeper parts supports the road and takes about an hour to drive up. The terrain here is rugged and challenging, making using a 4×4 vehicle for the journey essential.
Drive carefully and ensure your vehicle is well-equipped for off-road conditions to navigate this remote and breathtaking route safely.
You can camp anywhere on the side of the road in the higher parts of the mountains but be prepared for the lack of shade.
Along the way to Beehive Tombs of Jaylah, you’ll pass through small local villages of Jebel Tiwi (22.835583, 59.140711) where people tend flocks of goats, a testament to human resilience in this remote and seemingly hostile area. The route from the coast to the tombs is around 40 kilometers and takes from 1.5 to 2 hours.
FALAJ AL JAYLAH
If you have spare time during your journey to the Beehive Tombs, I strongly encourage you to visit Falaj Al Jaylah (22.791555, 59.120820). This historical irrigation system is nestled in a tiny mountain village, offering a glimpse into Oman’s traditional water management practices.
Interestingly, the photo of Falaj Al Jaylah is featured on the Omani banknote, underscoring its cultural and historical significance.
To reach Falaj Al Jaylah, you will take an off-road route, at this point: 22.826707, 59.108985. This is a one-way road so after visiting this hidden gem, you will return the same way to the main path and continue further to the Beehive Tombs of Jaylah.
You can do both routes in the loop. I would suggest on the first day taking Route 1, visiting the caves and green wadis, camping at the plateau (22.852863, 59.109040), and the next day you can visit Falaj Al Jaylah, Beehive Tombs, and then drive back to the coast using Route 2. |
Route 3: Easier Path from the Other Side
For a less challenging drive, the third route takes you through an off-road path from the opposite side of the mountains (entry point: 22.885607, 58.906359). It is around 25 km and takes about 1 hour. I would not recommend this route simply because except for geological terrain it does not offer any attractions. However, depending on your next destination, you can choose this path if it aligns better with your travel plans.
When I visited the Beehive Tombs of Jaylah, I camped near Muscat the previous night and planned to camp in Jebel Akhdar the following night. This made the third route the perfect choice. However, consider the first and second routes if you’re heading south towards Qalhat, Salalah, or Masirah Island.
Route 4: A call for adventure
There is also another off-road path Beehive Tombs of Jaylah-Qalhat. It is around 70 km and takes nearly 2 hours to drive down from the mountains to the coast. If you’re up for an adventure, you can consider taking this route on the way back and exiting near the ancient Bibi Maryam Mausoleum(22.696822, 59.373151). This route does not feature any attractions but you may find very secluded camping spots.
THE FIRST GLIMPSE: AWE AND WONDER
As I approached the Beehive Tombs of Jaylah, visible from the road that winds through the opposite ridge of the mountains, I was struck by their remarkable preservation. The realization that these structures have stood the test of time for thousands of years is awe-inspiring. The remote location of these tombs today makes one ponder how isolated they must have been when they were built.
The dedication of the ancient people who constructed these tombs so deep in the mountains speaks volumes about their significance.
LEGENDS OF THE BEEHIVE TOMBS OF JAYLAH
During my journey, I encountered local villagers who shared a captivating legend about the Beehive Tombs of Jaylah. According to the tale, a demonic creature or ‘jāhil’ (an unbeliever) named Kebir Keb (also known as Kabikab or Kubaikib) once dwelled in the towering structures dotting the land. Kebir Keb wielded a fearsome sword and struck terror into the hearts of all who crossed his path.
But amidst the darkness of this legend shines a glimmer of hope as a local goat herder. One day, while tending his flock, the herder stumbled upon a jinn woman bathing in a nearby stream. Though angered by his intrusion, the jinn spared his life, seeing in him a resemblance to her son. She entrusted the herder with a secret—the key to defeating Kebir Keb: the demon slept with his eyes open.
Armed with this knowledge, the brave herder dared to challenge the creature. With courage and cunning, he stole Kebir Keb’s sword and, with a single stroke, cleaved the demon in two. However, Kebir Keb did not die. His torso tried to run back after the herder.
The exact time of this heroic deed remains shrouded in mystery, yet the presence of two graves (one with the legs of the demon and the other with the torso, in another location) serves as a chilling reminder of the legend’s truth.
THE ALLURE OF MYSTERY
The allure of these ancient, mysterious Beehive Tombs of Jaylah is undeniable. Their remote location, coupled with the rich history and local legends, makes them a must-visit for any traveler seeking to explore the hidden gems of Oman.
So pack your bags, ready for your off-road vehicle, and embark on an unforgettable journey to uncover the secrets of the Beehive Tombs of Jaylah.
Don’t forget to check out our recommended gear and travel essentials here, ensuring you’re well-prepared for this adventure. Happy travels!
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