There are many imaginative stories circulating around United Arab Emirates concerning Al Jazirah Al Hamra (Arabic: red island) or more commonly referred to as “ghost town”.
Personally, first time I have heard about it from a local friend trying to convince me that the place was haunted, justifying it with (an obviously fake) famous video of a ghost spotted in Al Jazirah Al Hamra, floating around social media. You can see it here.
Many people are extremely terrified to approach the ruins of Al Jazirah Al Hamra, especially at night. Although I do not really believe in paranormal activity happening in this place, I do admit it has a weird vibe lingering in the air.
And here I will tell you why…
I GOT CAUGHT BY A HEAVY STORM
A few years ago, on a typical hot, summer day, I made a plan to explore the famous Al Jazirah Al Hamra. If you live in this region of the world, you would know that summer storms are very rare. So what was the possibility of one catching me right in the middle of my expedition to the “ghost town”? Very low, indeed.
I just passed through the entrance of Al Jazirah Al Hamra, when, in the blink of an eye, the skies have darkened to bluish-gray, accompanied by rumbles of thunders and suddenly heavy rainstorm lashed down. This extreme change of the weather did not give me any time to evaluate my current situation. It found me inside the car, right in the middle of the “ghost town”, praying for this horrible storm to pass. Storms are probably one of not many things that I am actually scared of! The whole situation made me feel like I am not really welcome there. But…
LIVELY TOWN FILLED WITH CULTURE AND TRADITIONS
After the weather cooled down, I opened my eyes and gazed on the abandoned stone houses left to rot. Houses made of coral stones and mud, covered with woven leaf roofs and guarded by colorful doors with Arabic patterns painted on them. Here and there you could spot rusty oil lamps, obsolete furniture, different kind of kitchen ware that you would not really come across nowadays. All of that made me confident that people of Al Jazirah Al Hamra, lived comfortably and in clover. Especially the pearl merchant – his residences decorated with splendid ornamentation are reflecting wealth and importance of their owner.
While still looking around, a set of scenes flickered in front of my eyes: a lively town filled with culture and traditions. Sea breeze drifting through a crowded market place filled with voices of merchants and passersby. Mosques, fortress of defense purposes, school, shops and houses of many designs. Fishing boats berthing to the beach with the tide. Wives, mothers and children waiting at the shore for the men to return after months of pearl fishing expeditions.
This was the life of pre-oil times in the United Arab Emirates. The life that has changed overnight.
MYSTERY BEHIND ABANDONING AL JAZIRAH AL HAMRA
Al Jazirah Al Hamra is a former tidal island (in 1970s land reclamation project made it part of the mainland). It used to be home to people mostly from an Arab seafaring and pearl-diving tribe – the Zaab. The inhabitants developed the settlement into a renowned pearling trade centre by 1830, maintaining a fleet of 25 pearling boats. Pearls used to be the main source of income for the tribe until the crash of the pearl market in the late 1920s, when Japanese invented cultured pearls.
The once thriving village of Al Jazirah Al Hamra bears saddening story of alleged tribal conflict that made its inhabitants to leave instantaneously in 1968 for a new beginning – mostly to the city of Abu Dhabi in the United Arab Emirates.
THEN AND NOW
To this day, much of the original pearl diving village remains untouched. You will not find any signs, tour guides, museum, or guards in Al Jazirah Al Hamra. There are no gates or fences. Many roads will allow you to enter the ruins of the town, however I recommend this one: 25.710001, 55.791567. It will give you an opportunity to drive very close to the seashore, giving you a better idea of the life of the people here in the past. You will not need 4×4 car to explore Al Jazirah Al Hamra, however there are some places you can get your car possibly stuck, as the roads are firm but still covered with a thick layer of sand.
Once populated rural space, now abandoned and empty, paradoxically, Al Jazirah Al Hamra is surrounded by resorts, malls and high buildings of developed civilization that you can spot in the neighbourhood. Keep in mind that some of the abandoned houses are actually inhibited by labour workers, especially close to the main street.
Al Jazirah Al Hamra is the last-surviving pearl diving and seafaring town in the United Arab Emirates still standing. It is truly a connecting tunnel between now and then. Despite a huge historical potential, legacy and a heritage, the future of Jazirat Al Hamra remains unknown. There are, however, major restoration projects under way to transform the area into a tourist landmark. Some of them already started, creating an excellent location for films and exhibitions, for example The Ras Al Khaimah Fine Arts Festival.
REMEMBER:
- Do not leave any garbage behind, including food. Even organic waste can take months to biodegrade and meanwhile it will attract animals. It may not only make them stop eating their natural food and rely on what humans leave behind but also it may make them sick.
- Have always a bag ready to collect trash left behind by other inconsiderate people – at the end you are saving the nature.
- Hike or camp over gravel and rocks. In some areas the vegetation can take years to grow back.
- Leave natural and historical items where you find them.
- Minimize cooking over campfire, use the stove instead – it is less impact on the wilderness.
UAE OFF-ROADER GUIDE
If you are looking for more off-road trails to discover around United Arab Emirates, I can recommend this ultimate guide that is packed with many routes, giving very detailed information and answering all questions you could have about off-roading in the UAE.
You can get it from Amazon: https://amzn.to/2UrKZdo
I hope you found this article about Al Jazirah Al Hamra helpful and it gave you an idea where to head to next weekend. If you would like to visit other amazing places nearby, I recommend you to check: Astonishing Turquoise of Saraya Island, Breathtaking View From Highland Villa, Forgotten Story Buried in Wadi Haqeel. Enjoy!
