Ain Al Ghamour (in Arabic: عين الغمور) used to be a popular tourist destination and is mentioned in all the travel guides of the UAE from the past. Initially, my first trip there was supposed to be nothing more than a trip to explore the hot springs that dried up more than ten years ago. I was very much interested in the geology of Ain Al Ghamour and was hoping to still find some traces of sulfur water flowing out of the depths of the ground. However, the whole trip and the story afterward exceeded my expectations and unfolded in a totally different way.
SULFUR LINGERING IN THE AIR
The first thing that hit my nostrils upon arrival at Ain Al Ghamour (24.958862, 56.314684) was an extremely strong smell of sulfur lingering in the air. It is incredible that the springs have been dry for the past ten years, the distinct “rotten egg” smell easily reveals Ain Al Ghamour’s past. The whole vibe of this place is a little bit post-apocalyptic, something similar you would feel visiting Chernobyl.
Several buildings, including changing rooms, a toilet, a swimming pool, and important objects that I will explain further in this article. All in tearful condition, damaged and covered by graffiti. Now the area is covered by the white color soil, however, in the past the soil was of a gray color, indicating the presence of active sulfur water.
In the past, the hot springs of Ain Ghamour at an altitude of 88 meters above sea level were known to be rich in sulfur compounds, which are an excellent remedy for atherosclerosis, skin and heart diseases, the digestive and respiratory system, and many more. The water temperature flowing out directly from the ground used to be around 70o Celsius and it was impossible to stay in it for an extended period of time.
Later, a swimming pool was built below the mainspring. It was connected by a channel (in Arabic: “falaj”), which supplied water to the lower pool at a slightly lower temperature, making it possible for visitors, especially the elderly, to access the water easier and take longer baths.
People visiting Ain Al Ghamour used to follow the entire protocol before bathing in the hot springs. Some even bathed only on certain days of the week.
WHY DID THE WATER DRY UP?
People could enjoy the healing water until the approximately year 2008 when it was decided to create a separate swimming pool for women. They began digging into the ground in search of another stream, after which the mainspring began to dry up gradually, eventually not leaving a drop of water on the surface of the ground.
THE FOLKLORE STORY BEHIND AIN AL GHAMOUR
After my first visit to Ain Al Ghamour and posting the report from my trip on Instagram, I was flooded with messages from people who have been to Ain Al Ghamour multiple times in the past or have heard about it from their friends or families. The following stories are a collection of what I was able to gather during interviews with these people.
In the process of collecting the information, I discovered aspects that completely deviated from the original idea of this article, which was supposed to cover the hot springs from a geological point of view.
New perspectives of presenting this place opened up – through from folklore, heritage, culture, and old beliefs, which have, surprisingly, not much to do with contemporary religion here.
Going back to ancient times, many legends circulate about Ain Al Ghamour, which I am not so sure to quote here because they often border with fantasy stories – jinns (ghosts) digging tunnels underground to make it possible for water to flow to help people irrigate their farms; next, jinns being unruly and therefore God making the water hot to drive them out from the area…
I’m a little confused if this famous proverb could be applied here: “there is a grain of truth in every legend”. While all of these stories about jinns sound a little bit unreal, it’s worth knowing what people used to believe in the past.
It is not exactly known since when Ain Al Ghamour hot springs actually existed here but the folklore beliefs remained strong and have survived to this day.
PERFUME BOTTLES SHATTERED ON THE GROUND
What can be seen at first glance (mainly around the mainspring and the lower pool) is a huge number of glass bottles scattered on the ground and pieces of broken goblets in which people burn incense. The bottles are the remains of expensive perfumes that used to be sprinkled on the water of Ain Al Ghamour. What was the purpose of this action? I will try to give you an answer to this question below.
SHEIKH’S TOMB
“Sheikh” in the local beliefs was a benefactor, a man close to God. Some people can still point out the location of his tomb. Although heavily overgrown, it is situated a short distance from the mainspring. According to people, after Sheikh died, the sulfur water with healing properties started to flow out from the ground nearby his grave. Sheikh’s spirit somehow resided in the water and continue to heal visitors.
Therefore, people felt the need to constantly give gratitude for all the miracles to Sheikh by pouring expensive perfumes into the water and burning incense around the water source. My interviewers both agree that in the past, the fragrance of frankincense and oud could be smelled from a distance carried by the wind as you approached the area of Ain Al Ghamour.
THE PURPOSE OF THE SQUARE
There is an inconspicuous concrete square next to the lower pool. A tree grows above the square, and there are strings tied to the branches of the tree. I suppose a normal visitor, unaware of the history, would not be able to guess that the square was a kind of sacrificial square. As Ain Al Ghamour was considered to be a holy place, it was used to kill animals. There is a hole in the floor of the square that goes into a pipe and goes into a small reservoir below. I guess, it was constructed to collect the blood of a slain animal.
“I SEEK FORGIVENESS FROM ALLAH”
As I was walking between the buildings and pools of Ain Al Ghamour, I noticed plenty of signboards with Arabic text that translates as “There is no God but Allah” and “I seek forgiveness from Allah”. Some of the similar signboards are placed by the roads as a reminder for people. However, I have never seen so many of them in one place.
It is hard to say whether these signboards were placed here due to the fact that people believed it was a holy place, or if they saw some of the practices performed here are inconsistent with the teachings of their religion. Asking my informants, they were unable to answer this question.
CAMPING AND HIKING OPPORTUNITIES
Having covered Ain Al Ghamour hot water springs and their history, I would like to focus on the amazing opportunities for hiking, camping, and off-roading in this area. Right behind the mosque, which is situated at the end of the tarmac road, there is a dirt trail that will take you inside the majestic Hajar Mountains and allow you to find so many amazing spots for camping. There are many abandoned all farms nearby, providing an excellent flat spot to set up your camp at.
Thanks to the abundance of underground water, the area of Ain Al Ghamour is extremely green and a very pleasing location to go for a relaxing trek. There are plenty of clear paths leading next to old farming fields, in the embrace of nature.
REMEMBER!
- Do not leave any garbage behind, including food. Even organic waste can take months to biodegrade and meanwhile it will attract animals. It may not only make them stop eating their natural food and rely on what humans leave behind but also it may make them sick.
- Have always a bag ready to collect trash left behind by other inconsiderate people – in the end, you are saving nature.
- Hike or camp over gravel and rocks. In some areas, the vegetation can take years to grow back.
- Leave natural and historical items where you find them.
- Minimize cooking over a campfire, use the stove instead – it is less impact on the wilderness.
UAE OFF-ROADER GUIDE
If you are looking for more off-road trails to discover around the United Arab Emirates, I can recommend this ultimate guide that is packed with many routes, giving very detailed information and answering all questions you could have about off-roading in the UAE.
You can get it from Amazon: https://amzn.to/2UrKZdo
FIELD GUIDE TO EMIRATES
To learn more about UAE’s natural & archaeological treasures, check: https://www.fieldguidetoemirates.com
I hope you found this article about Ain Al Ghamour helpful and it gave you an idea of where to head to next weekend. If you are looking for more places to visit nearby, I recommend you to check: Hidden Beach in Khorfakkan – A Tiny Paradise and Top 5 Off-Road Mountain Trails in the UAE. Enjoy!
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