Day 5: Jebel Samhan — Where Arabian Leopard Wanders

It’s a gloomy rainy afternoon when I finally arrive at Jebel Samhan mountain range. I overcome the off-road section and reach a place, literally at the end of the world at an altitude of about 1,300 m rock shelf sloping down to a coastal plain. I cannot see the coast, though — a dense, all-obscuring blanket of clouds lies underneath the cliff stretching to the horizon.

JEBEL SAMHAN — HOME TO ARABIAN LEOPARD

Jebel Samhan’s magnificent splendor is simply unfathomable. It is home to the critically endangered Arabian leopard that prefers hilly steppes and mountainous uplands. Due to habitat degradation, hunting (human being the only predator to leopard), and climate change there are only about two hundred left in the wild today, and according to data approximately twenty of them live on Jebel Samhan’s Nature Reserve territory of 4,500 square kilometers. Chances of seeing one are slim to none.

UNIQUE JIBBALI TRIBE

I cannot talk about Jebel Samhan not mentioning the camels and I cannot talk about camels not mentioning Jibbali people (the name “Jibbali” is derived from the Arabic word for “mountain”).

Dhofar province can appear to be a world away from the rest of Oman. Because it is separated from the rest of Oman by a thousand kilometers of desert, the region’s history and identity have always been distinct from the rest of the country, having more similarities with neighboring Yemen, rather than the Omani countrymen of the north. Dhofaris, unlike the Ibadhis of Muscat and the Omani heartland, are almost entirely Sunni. Northern Oman’s traditional attire and handcraft culture are also very distinct.

Jibbali people lead a simple and modest way of life amidst majestic hills and charming pastures. They farm animals, in addition to camels that can be found everywhere in the mountains, they also take care of cows and goats.

Jibbali people are divided into several tribes, they inhabit the mountainous areas of southern Oman and the border of Yemen, and speak unique languages: Jibbali/Shehri, Mehri, Hobyot, and Harsusi — the Modern South Arabian languages. Unlike Arabic and Hebrew, which are descended from Central Semitic languages, the Jibbali languages are descended from South Semitic languages that have long been defunct and relegated to history’s dustbin. Even the Arabic dialect spoken in Dhofar is distinct from that of northern Oman.

At the beginning of my trip to Salalah, leaving from Fazayah Beach (Day 3: Pristine Paradise — Fazayah Beach) I had a lovely encounter with Jibbali family. They were such welcoming and respectful people, curious where I was from and wanting to take a photo with me (which was quite surprising but I guess I was a big attraction for them as much as they were for me). Traditionally dressed, in a way that I have not seen anywhere else before in Oman and also the facial features were different from what my eyes were used to seeing. I was so fascinated by that meeting that I started researching about these unique people of Dhofar.

AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD — JEBEL SAMHAN

There are plenty of amazing camping spots in Jebel Samhan (for example here: 17.108726, 54.705380), however, the best ones are accessible by 4×4 vehicles. Once you park your car by the edge of the mountain, it really does feel like you are standing at the edge of the world. Dramatic cliffs seem to hang in the air, while in fact, a dense fog obscures the view under your feet and wrongly makes you think that there is nothing underneath. The sunrise at Jebel Samhan is especially worth seeing when the light slowly breaks through the clouds and rises above them.

It tends to get windy at the top of Jebel Samhan, especially at night, so if the weather is not stable it is better to park your car at a reasonable distance from the cliff.

If you would like to continue reading about my trip to Salalah, check the next article: Day 6: Wadi Darbat Waterfalls & Taqah Cliff

REMEMBER!

Do not leave any garbage behind, including food. Even organic waste can take months to biodegrade and meanwhile it will attract animals. It may make them stop eating their natural food and rely on what humans leave behind and make them sick.
Have always a bag ready to collect trash left behind by other inconsiderate people – in the end, you are saving nature.
Hike or camp over gravel and rocks. In some areas, the vegetation can take years to grow back.
Leave natural and historical items where you find them.
Minimize cooking over a campfire, use the stove instead – it is less impact on the wilderness.

UAE OFF-ROADER GUIDE

If you are looking for more off-road trails to discover around the United Arab Emirates, I can recommend this ultimate guide that is packed with many routes, giving very detailed information and answering all questions you could have about off-roading in the UAE.

You can get it from Amazon.